How to style a navy sweater

Which colours go with a navy sweater?

Navy is the darkest of the commonly worn blues and behaves almost like a soft black: it is cool, calm and very low in visual noise. Because it is so dark, it looks best when something close to it is noticeably lighter. White and pale blue near the neckline create the clearest contrast, and brighten the face as well.

For trousers, mid-grey, stone, camel and ecru are all lighter than the sweater and share enough quietness to make a relaxed palette. Olive and khaki are muted greens and browns that sit comfortably beside navy, because they are low in saturation and warm enough to balance its coolness. Denim is a natural partner: a mid or light wash gives value contrast, whereas dark indigo denim is close in tone to navy and works best when a light T-shirt or collar breaks it up.

Pairing navy with black is the one combination that needs some thought. The two are close in value, so the outfit can look as if you misjudged the colours rather than chose them. If you want to do it, make sure a lighter element, such as a white collar, a grey scarf or silver jewellery, separates them. For a touch of colour, burgundy, rust and dusty pink are muted enough to sit beside navy without competing.

• Crisp: white, pale blue, ecru under or beside it.
• Calm: grey, stone, camel, khaki, olive.
• Casual: mid or light wash denim, white sneakers.
• Needs a break: black or very dark indigo, with a lighter layer between.

What should you wear under a crew-neck sweater?

A crew-neck is a stable canvas, and what shows at the neckline sets the tone. A white or pale blue shirt with the collar worn outside the sweater is the classic smart-casual choice. Keep the collar clean and well-pressed, and choose a collar that is soft and not too stiff, so it sits flat. A plain white T-shirt with a slightly visible crew neckline is the relaxed alternative and is better when the sweater is thicker.

Layering a lightweight turtleneck or a fine-knit polo under the sweater gives a more sculpted effect and is good for colder days. If the sweater is very fine gauge, it can also work as a layer under a blazer or an unstructured jacket, in which case let a small amount of the neckline show.

For hems, avoid letting a shirt tail hang out far below the sweater. A little at the hem can look relaxed, but more than that looks like a mistake. Either tuck the shirt, or wear it with a sweater that ends below the waistband.

How should a navy sweater fit?

A good crew-neck sweater should skim the body without clinging. The shoulder seam should sit at the edge of your shoulder, the sleeve should end at the wrist bone or just beyond it, and the hem should rest at the belt line or a little below. A slightly boxy, relaxed fit looks contemporary with straight or wide trousers, and a closer fit is neater with tapered styles.

Gauge, which is how thick the yarn and stitch are, changes the formality. A fine gauge merino looks smart and layers well under jackets. A mid-weight wool is the all-round choice. A chunky knit is the most casual and brings volume to the upper body, which is best balanced with slimmer trousers. If you are tall, a slightly longer hem works well. If you are shorter, a hem that ends at the hip helps your legs look longer.

Which shoes and trousers work best?

With jeans, clean white sneakers or brown suede boots keep it casual. With chinos or wool trousers, brown loafers, dark brown derbies or suede desert boots are the natural choice, and are smart enough for an office with a relaxed dress code. Black leather shoes work with grey or black trousers, as long as the rest of the outfit contains a lighter tone.

For women, a navy crew-neck pairs well with a midi skirt in cream, camel or leopard print, a pair of wide-leg grey trousers, or a pleated skirt in a soft check. Footwear can be loafers, ankle boots or minimal trainers. A slim leather belt in dark brown ties it all together if the sweater is tucked.

Think of navy as the anchor and let the lower half carry the colour or the texture: a corduroy trouser in olive or camel, a pair of grey flannels, or a wide-leg ecru trouser gives you plenty of choice.

How do you wear a navy sweater in different seasons?

In cooler months, put it under a camel, grey or olive coat for a quiet, layered look, and add a scarf in a lighter colour. In spring and early autumn, a fine-gauge version with a white shirt works as a single layer, and can be worn with lighter trousers in stone or ecru. In summer, a very fine cotton or linen-blend knit takes over, but the principle is unchanged: navy with white and one earthy neutral.

To keep a wool sweater looking its best, fold it rather than hang it, and use a fabric comb or shaver on any pilling. Wool recovers well when aired between wears, so you rarely need to wash it more than a few times a season.

Common mistakes

• Wearing a navy sweater with black trousers and shoes without anything lighter creates a muddy, low-contrast outfit, so add a white collar, a grey scarf or a light belt to break it up.
• Choosing a sweater that is too short and wearing it with a shirt that hangs below the hem looks unintentional, so either tuck the shirt or pick a sweater that ends at or below the belt line.
• Wearing a sweater a size too small stretches the knit across the chest and stomach, so choose a size that skims the body with a little ease.
• Letting pilling build up around the underarms and cuffs makes a navy sweater look tired, so comb it lightly and store it folded.